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      <h1 class="post-title">2019夏末呼伦贝尔行(4)：呼伦湖、满洲里</h1>

      <div class="post-meta">
        <span class="post-time"> 2019-10-27 </span>
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            <a href="/categories/%E6%97%85%E6%B8%B8/"> 旅游 </a>
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          <span class="more-meta"> 约 1507 字 </span>
          <span class="more-meta"> 预计阅读 4 分钟 </span>
        <span id="busuanzi_container_page_pv" class="more-meta"> <span id="busuanzi_value_page_pv"><img src="/img/spinner.svg" alt="spinner.svg"/></span> 次阅读 </span>
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  <h2 class="post-toc-title">文章目录</h2>
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    <nav id="TableOfContents">
  <ul>
    <li><a href="#第四日">第四日</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#呼伦湖">呼伦湖</a></li>
        <li><a href="#满洲里套娃广场">满洲里套娃广场</a></li>
        <li><a href="#满洲里市">满洲里市</a></li>
      </ul>
    </li>
    <li><a href="#第五日">第五日</a>
      <ul>
        <li><a href="#扎赉诺尔博物馆">扎赉诺尔博物馆</a></li>
      </ul>
    </li>
    <li><a href="#归途">归途</a></li>
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    <div class="post-content">
      <h2 id="第四日">第四日</h2>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y5llQeq2d6.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 第四日路书</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="呼伦湖">呼伦湖</h3>
<p>从黑山头继续沿国境线西行，又是一派如茵的草原风光。但逐渐下起大雨。越近呼伦湖，雨势越凶残，就跟利奇马台风一样，瓢泼嚎啕，免费洗车。令人目瞪口呆。在满洲里东的扎赉诺尔躲了一个多小时，雨势方敛。在草原遇到这等大雨，也是始料未及。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GJXg7pc3.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 水洗过的草甸</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GDBYyj47.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 边境湿地</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GLj37be1.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 呼伦湖</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​呼伦湖浩淼两千多平方公里，这会儿却显得阴鸷沉忍，并不太吸引人。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GMu0Rkba.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 呼伦湖畔</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>继续向西。草甸的气象更浓了。沿途随处可见这些巨型的风力发电机，像巨人零星站在山岗上。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GP8J3s3a.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 风力发电机</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GNVepT85.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 巨大的风力发电机</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>在一处牧场，一群羊很有纪律地排着队吃草，相当硬核。旁边是军事禁区。军训过的羊果然不一般。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GHBsDR5f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 整队吃草的羊</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GIuHi79f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 军训羊和机车男</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">吃</p>
<p>​靠山吃山，靠水吃水。到了呼伦湖，特色菜主要就是湖鱼。</p>
</div>
<h3 id="满洲里套娃广场">满洲里套娃广场</h3>
<p>满洲里就建在这样的草原上。由于下雨，国门就不去打卡了，直接绕到套娃景区。</p>
<p>这个景区全是俄式建筑，火锅城、游乐场、出入口，甚至厕所也是套娃模样，真教人情何以堪。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GWcEaH37.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 满洲里套娃广场</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>最精华的当然是标间一晚两千块、去年一度被炒到六千大洋的胖保龄球，不对，俄罗斯套娃酒店啦。内部装修混搭了土豪金、跑马灯和一以贯之的套娃主题。哪哪儿都是套娃，连客房大门都是。厕所的内墙都用马赛克拼出套娃图案。就问你眼睛辣不辣。大厅里全是拍照的，只有少数人拖着箱子往客房走，京牌客人果然有实力。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4H65dXJ83.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 套娃酒店</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4H6cXnj31.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 套娃酒店正门</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4H6j1Mp25.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 套娃酒店大堂</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4H570Lf29.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 套娃酒店内饰灯</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4GYLdkf23.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 套娃酒店内饰</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>天已放晴，我们跑去旁边的游乐场玩了一圈。主要是海盗船、云霄飞车之类的。大概客流不行，维护不到位，很多设备运转起来能听到嘎吱声。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HmbDRJ47.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 套娃游乐园</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HmgGxA4a.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 十二生肖塑像之鼠（左起第一）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>此外也有一些展馆，比如展示套娃工艺流程的套娃展览馆。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HfWNLnfd.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 套娃展览馆</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4Hg2a4Ad4.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 盘成一坨的蛇（后排左起第一）</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HgfOGE44.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 旋木和表情管理</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>​雨后过山车停运，但也有额外收获。看到一枚色散完美的彩虹。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HyO9EQ38.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 彩虹</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HrbjB943.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 彩虹</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>整体说来，人气不太足。 在套娃景区的商场里逛了逛，买了不少俄国巧克力之类。毛子战力惊人，零食都做得很甜。</p>
<h3 id="满洲里市">满洲里市</h3>
<p>满洲里夜景颇有名。市内以俄式建筑为主，入夜后每扇窗户下都有黄灯亮起。想想《大象席地而坐》里抑郁的青年们拼了命要去满洲里。现实里的满洲里挺色彩斑斓的。不过停车比较困难。</p>
<h2 id="第五日">第五日</h2>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y5lnmusDc7.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 第五日路书</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<h3 id="扎赉诺尔博物馆">扎赉诺尔博物馆</h3>
<p>最后一日，游访扎赉诺尔博物馆。扎赉诺尔是满洲里煤矿所在，出土过猛犸象化石。这儿类似新区，路阔楼新。而满洲里老城的道路就相对狭窄，到处是单行道，停车困难，入夜后路两边都停满了车。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HDhTusc4.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 扎赉诺尔博物馆</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HwX86I88.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 扎赉诺尔博物馆对面市政广场</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HEOh2f5f.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 广场</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>博物馆的主题是猛犸和煤。呼伦湖畔是鲜卑、蒙古走出兴安岭后落脚的第一站，所以还是留下了一些贵族墓，出土些陶俑、带钩啥的。总的来说人文部分乏善可陈。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HHGeES1e.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 猛犸象牙化石</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HGuMSc30.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 猛犸化石</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<p>开回海拉尔的途中，草已经渐渐黄了。</p>
<figure class="center"><img src="https://gh-1251443721.cos.ap-chengdu.myqcloud.com/2019/1027/001ZzLsRzy7y4HA95zy48.jpeg" width="100%"/><figcaption>
            <h4>图 | 归程</h4>
        </figcaption>
</figure>
<div class="admonition tip"><p class="admonition-title">吃</p>
<p>在海拉尔人民医院旁边，吃了著名的蒙餐厅诺敏塔拉。比较有名的就是酥油茶，把奶皮子炒了米，丢进奶茶锅里。奶茶比想象中淡。其他菜比想象中好一些。​</p>
</div>
<h2 id="归途">归途</h2>
<p>这次是我历来地理尺度最大的一次旅行，一千多公里，跨了典型的温带牧区、林区。亲身经历了草原的辽阔无垠，才能直观地体会国土之大，天地之广。希望这些地理和人文的多样性，能给久陷都市的娃带来视野上的助益。</p>
<p>旅游爆发给呼伦贝尔带来了一些进步，也带来不少明显的后遗症。除了前面说的物价问题，还有大量烂尾工程。海拉尔郊外的两河圣山，就是个庞大的人工建筑群，烂尾了。室韦有个蒙古起源地文化博物馆，也烂尾了。沿途常能看到草原上突然维和地矗起一座空无一人的大建筑。消化这些东西，可能得花不少时间。</p>
<p>还得回去接着搬砖。再见，水獭-雄水獭。</p>
<p>[完]</p>
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